by Leah Romero on
NEAR THE FOOTHILLS of Mount Cristo Rey, just steps from the U.S.–Mexico border, Ardovino’s Desert Crossing has long been a Sunland Park institution known for its Italian-American comfort food, classic cocktails, and retro ambience. But in recent years, the historic restaurant has quietly undergone a culinary evolution. Under the stewardship of Danny Calleros, the old-school favorite has become a destination for chef-driven cooking—an effort that recently earned Calleros a James Beard Award semifinalist nomination for Best Chef: Southwest, making him the only nominee from southern New Mexico recognized this year.
Calleros grew up down the street from the restaurant and worked his way through its ranks from busser to helping with pizza prep to leading the kitchen. He approaches the menu with a mix of respect for the restaurant’s legacy and a commitment to seasonal cooking, leaning on local farmers, regional ingredients, and a willingness to experiment. “I want to be as close to the community and provide and support,” he says of sourcing locally, including from the farmers’ market Ardovino’s hosts each Saturday. “I always tell [the farmers], ‘Whatever you don’t sell, I’ll buy.’ ”
The restaurant also grows many of its own herbs and vegetables—including basil, squash, radishes, and carrots—just steps from the kitchen. “Having your own basil is invaluable,” says co-owner Robert Ardovino, whose uncle founded the family business in 1949.
While longtime guests still come for the wood-fired pizzas and house-made pastas, Calleros elevates those staples with ingredients like toasted local pecans, fermented garlic, and totomoxtle (corn husk ash). He introduces specials every few weeks based on what’s available and what his imagination cooks up. Recent experiments include salmon cakes and Scotch quail eggs that are “out of this world,” according to Ardovino.
Despite the James Beard recognition and Ardovino’s growing buzz, Calleros remains focused on his craft and team. “When I first heard the news, all I could think about is that we just need to continue working hard and harder,” he says. “I love it here; I don’t see myself going anywhere else.”