LIKE YELLOW ON MUSTARD, hot-dog season is upon us. Hej Hej’s Swedish hot dogs, however, take the usual all-American accouterments and flip them delightfully sideways—swapping ketchup and relish for creamy shrimp salad, pickled vegetables, and fluffy mashed potatoes. The Albuquerque pop-up of San Francisco transplant Amelia Eudailey, aka Chef Hej Hej, reimagines the humble frankfurter through a Scandinavian lens, inspired by Sweden’s street food tunnbrödsrulle, a dog layered in hearty toppings and wrapped in tunnbröd (flatbread). I’ll admit, I was skeptical the first time I heard “shrimp salad on a hot dog.” But it works. Find pop-up dates at chefhejhej.com or on Instagram @chefhejhej. And go early, the lines are more than a foot long.