by Cheryl Alters Jamison on
WHAT IF EVERY YEAR, you could count on spending an entire weekend in joyous celebration of your dearly departed? Día de los Muertos observances provide just such occasions of festive remembrance, replete with edible delights, including some for the loved ones whose souls or spirits are said to be visiting.
Not the least bit sad or scary despite all the skeletons, the Day of the Dead tradition in Mexico has a pre-Columbian history. The Spaniards who arrived in that country tried to eliminate it, without success, but managed to merge it with their Catholic All Saints’ Day and All Souls’ Day. Its imagery and traditions have been widely adopted into the culture of New Mexico, where it is celebrated with gusto.
Day of the Dead interests me greatly because of Mexican culture’s comfortable recognition, and acceptance, of the circle of life. I also love the many artist renditions of skeletons (calacas) and skulls (calaveras), and even fancy ladies (Catrinas). Catrinas usually take the form of statuesque skeletons in elegant dress, their skulls sporting feathery chapeaus. Today’s figurines often pay homage to the style of Jóse Guadalupe Posada, the famed Mexican artist, satirical cartoonist, and pamphleteer whose political and social commentary—often using skeleton figures—took Mexico and then the world by storm in the days leading up to the 1910 Mexican Revolution.
I also relish the strong culinary focus of the celebration, especially the sweet anise- and orange-scented pan de muerto, a balloony loaf adorned with bread “bones.” Sometimes it will have the departed’s name, or a sentiment like por mi gordita inscribed in bread dough as well. I love the three-dimensional sugar skulls with frostings and frippery, and the more contemporary, wildly decorated sugar skull cookies. These items and special savory dishes like mole may be eaten in the home and placed on the special altar (ofrenda) for the returning spirits. In Mexican towns like Pátzcuaro and Oaxaca that have an especially strong history of Día de los Muertos commemorations, people decorate altars with miniature plates of enchiladas or bowls of mole or baskets of fruit made out of the same sugar paste that forms the many decorative skulls.
An altar should also have a glass of water to refresh the spirits after their long journey, and salt, the spice of life. An altar must be festooned with bright marigolds and candles, and needs to reflect the personality of the person or people being remembered. Along with a photo or portrait of the deceased, the altar should have examples of things they loved, perhaps a favorite book or sports memorabilia, and a bottle of tequila or beer and a favorite snack. I once saw an altar being carried into a Mexican cemetery covered with dangling bananas. Mirthful skeleton figures, sometimes engaged in the profession or favorite pastime of the deceased, are also a must.
HERE IN NEW MEXICO
Albuquerque and Mesilla/Las Cruces have the state’s most established community Día de los Muertos traditions, and Santa Fe has picked up on the idea in more recent years. Albuquerque’s Marigold Parade has been a part of South Valley heritage for more than two decades. This year, the parade will fall on the actual Day of the Dead, Sunday, November 2. Maria Brazil, one of the parade’s volunteer co-directors, is justly proud of this grassroots annual celebration. More than 5,000 people attended last year’s parade, which had over 80 floats, some made by families or groups of friends, others by community organizations and school groups.
“Anyone can be in the parade, as long as they paint on a skeleton face and have marigolds, either paper or the real thing,” says Brazil. “Even our neighborhood firefighters take part, with their faces made up.”
You’ll see bicyclists, motorcyclists, Rollerbladers, and a few folks on horseback, interspersed with lowriders, decorated trucks, vintage cars, bands, and dance troupes. Bright paper flowers adorn everything. The parade travels a mile-long route from the corner of Centro Familiar and Isleta Boulevard SW to the Westside Community Center, at 1250 Isleta SW. After arriving at the community center, the celebration continues for the rest of the day, with an auditorium full of ofrendas, live music, and vendors selling Mexican and New Mexican food specialties.
Also in Albuquerque, the Golden Crown Panaderia, famous otherwise for its green chile cheese bread, gears up for Day of the Dead. It will offer at least three different sizes of pan de muerto. Owner Pratt Morales advises that you place your order early, because each one is a work of art. “You might not believe how much demand we have for these loaves. Many schools buy them as an edible centerpiece for students’ study of Día de los Muertos. We do a lot of them for private parties, too, some very elaborate. I’ve done large breads with a whole cemetery scene, headstones and all.”
Down in Mesilla, the entire plaza is taken over from October 31 through November 2 for a weekend filled with Day of the Dead festivities. Beautiful altars are the backdrops for dance performances, live music, storytelling, food vendors, a juried fair of muertos artists, and more. Check out the sponsoring Calavera Coalition’s Facebook page for more details, including the timing of the procession to the historic San Albino Cemetery. Just around the corner from the plaza, La Posta de Mesilla restaurant creates an ebullient altar in honor of its founder, Katy Griggs Camuñez Meek. Look for the altar’s plate of enchiladas and a cup of coffee, Katy’s favorite meal.
In Las Cruces, the NMSU Museum will host its annual sugar skull decorating event on Saturday, November 1. The staff premakes scores of skulls that can then be adorned in icing by kids, families, students, and anyone else who wants to stop by for the free activity. Also in Las Cruces, Casa Camino Real, home of the Border Book Festival, will celebrate Día de los Muertos with a Traveling Altars exhibition, potluck supper, and celebration on Sunday evening, November 2. The festival’s casa is an 1850s-era adobe on the historic Camino Real, near the original Las Cruces townsite (learn more at mynm.us/crucescasas). Anyone may exhibit an altar ambulante honoring an ancestor or deceased friend. Esteemed Las Cruces–born author Denise Chávez conceived the idea behind the exhibition, for which she is preparing an altar based on her late mother’s suitcase. She suggests others consider bringing a family trunk, a father’s shaving kit, or a favorite pet’s carrying case, decorated in Día de los Muertos style. Anyone who would like to attend the evening event is asked to bring a dish to share that honors their ancestors.
In Santa Fe, there’s no more perfect spot to participate in Día de los Muertos goings-on than the Museum of International Folk Art. The education staff hosts an array of activities both Saturday and Sunday, November 1 and 2, which include building an outdoor community altar at twilight on Saturday, and sugar skull decorating, pan de muerto tasting, and more on Sunday afternoon.
These are just a few examples of local festivities. Why not start a New Mexico Day of the Dead remembrance at your home, joining the celebration of lives well lived? We’ve got a menu of traditional foods for the joyful occasion. Just add skeletons.