TWO TRICKS OF THE TRADE are shared by the glistening cherry pie varieties on offer at the Pie Town Pie Co. Sarah Chavez, owner of the historic cafe in the pastry-loving hamlet on US 60 between Quemado and Datil, says the cherries must be the tart kind. And then, to thicken all stone-fruit pie fillings, “We use tapioca pearls instead of cornstarch,” Chavez says. The result is the kind of house-made vanilla-infused, bright and light, all-American cherry pie Charley Pride sang about in the 1978 country song “Burgers and Fries.” “It was simple and good back then,”
Pride warbled, and it still is in Pie Town, USA.