MY FOOTSTEPS BREAK the silence of Archbishop Lamy’s Chapel. Perched atop a small hill on the 317-acre property, the Territorial adobe has been carefully restored to its mid-1800s glory, complete with fresh white paint, a new cedar-shingle roof, and a vase of red flowers placed before the carved, Gothic-style altar.

“This is where Bishop’s Lodge began,” says Hanna Ortmann, the lodge’s marketing manager and my guide for the afternoon. Commissioned by French-born Jean Baptiste-Lamy, New Mexico’s first archbishop, the three-room building once served as a retreat for quiet contemplation, surrounded by lush gardens and orchards. By the time Auberge Resorts took over in 2017, however, the structure had fallen into severe disrepair.

Walking through the 170-year-old chapel feels like being transported back in time. The air seems to carry the echoes of centuries-old footfalls, as if rising through the ground to match my pace. Fittingly, lodge guests still visit the chapel, now deconsecrated, for yoga and meditation classes. “It’s obviously a Santa Fe landmark,” says Ortmann.

We walk out onto the chapel’s lawn, which overlooks the lodge’s sprawling property. Today, the grounds hold around 20 adobe buildings, many built during the resort’s recent $75 million remodel. The pastures, rolling mesas, forest trails, and nearby fishing have drawn visitors to the resort’s hundreds of acres in Little Tesuque Canyon for decades. “People come here to stay and relax,” Ortmann says.

The Horseshoe Gallery at Bishop’s Lodge showcases an impressive collection of contemporary art. Photograph courtesy of Bishop's Lodge Resort.

As the sun dips and the wind picks up, we follow a paved path to the lower story of the main lodge, built in the early 20th century by the Pulitzer family. Passing the Two Dogs Cafe and the private dining and meeting space known as the Yarrow Room, we arrive at the Horseshoe Gallery. Run by Bobby Beals, a Santa Fe–born artist, curator, and veteran of the Canyon Road gallery scene, the intimate space features colorful paintings, sculptures, and mixed-media pieces from 15 handpicked artists.

As we enter, Beals is chatting with local filmmaker Leandra Romero. “There’s something special going on here,” Beals tells me. “It’s not just a gallery.” While there are plenty of eye-catching works for sale, Beals wants to help guests draw inspiration from this place as others have for centuries. His hands-on classes explore various themes and artistic disciplines. “I’ll paint with guests for a couple hours, and we’ll talk about colors and color theory,” Beals says of a recent Capturing Light class. “We’ll talk about the Southwest and really get into the history.”

Art and history continue to intertwine as I sit down to dinner at SkyFire, the lodge’s signature restaurant located on the upper floor of the main lodge. Helmed by executive chef Diego Sobrino, SkyFire’s menu features local ingredients in elevated dishes like elk carpaccio and grilled ruby red trout. In the corner of the softly lit lounge at the edge of the bar, local musician Matthew Andrae plays guitar and sings self-described “squishy love songs.”

Skyfire Restaurant at Bishop’s Lodge offers a unique dining experience with its modern Southwestern cuisine. Photograph courtesy of Bishop's Lodge Resort.

During the meal, I meet one of SkyFire’s servers, whose family has worked in various capacities at the property for more than 20 years and who understands the legacy of this place. She nods toward the building’s original downstairs bar, where, in the 1920s, negotiations for the Colorado River Compact—which still governs New Mexico water rights—were held.

In the room bordering the bar, I spot original woodblock prints of desert trees by famed Santa Fe artist Gustave Baumann. SkyFire’s central Pulitzer Living Room displays large oil paintings of Zuni life from Warren Eliphalet Rollins, who was known as the dean of the Santa Fe art colony.

To end the evening, I try SkyFire’s signature Holy Margarita, made with the restaurant’s private reserve Código 1530 Rosa Tequila, Hatch chile, spiced apricot, agave, lime, and sal de gusano.

In the morning, I step onto my balcony at the Sunset Building to take in the fresh high-desert air and watch the sun rise over the pine-covered hills bordering Bishop’s Lodge. Before heading home, I hike the short Desert Ridge Trail, which climbs a small mesa beside the resort. At the top, I look past the adobe buildings into the forest rising over Little Tesuque Creek. I can feel the history that permeates the valley, as if it’s seeping through the land, bridging the past and this moment.

Read more: Unpack the past with a stay at these hotels.

Explore the Bishop’s Lodge property on horseback. Photograph courtesy of Bishop's Lodge Resort.


DON’T MISS

Like Bishop’s Lodge guests have done for decades, take full advantage of the massive property with a horseback ride on one of the resort’s beloved, well-trained horses. Riders of all skill levels can explore various forest trails on a group or private ride.