At Corner Office Food & Wine—a natural wine bar and bistro near Taos Plaza—peak-season produce becomes craveable small plates. “We try to be as hyperlocal as we can,” says executive chef Shea Orner. This silky braised leek dish embodies that approach. “It came together as a way to use up local leeks and some taleggio in the fridge,” he says. “But it turned into this really great, roasty spring dish.” Co-owner Ian Wolff recommends enjoying the rich, creamy alliums with a glass of Markus Altenburger’s Ois Erleben, a golden-hued skin-contact wine from Austria poured at Corner Office. “[It has] a deep honeyed flavor balanced by vibrant herbal notes and a clean, bright finish reminiscent of stone fruit,” Wolff says. For a New Mexico option, try Embudo Valley Vineyards’s Opiñons, a skin-contact chardonnay–viognier blend with bright citrus notes. 

  • 5 leeks
  • Extra virgin olive oil  
  • Salt 
  • Cracked black pepper 
  • 7 sprigs thyme
  • 1½ cups chicken stock, preferably homemade 
  • ½ cup cream 
  • 3 ounces taleggio cheese
  • White pepper
  • Sunflower seeds, apricot seeds, pumpkin seeds

Serves 4

1. Preheat oven to 350°. With a sharp knife cut the green tops off the leeks. (Tip: Do not discard, they’re great for stocks.) Cut stalks into 3-inch pieces, then cut in half, lengthwise. Gently transfer to a colander or cooling rack, cut side up. Keeping the leeks intact, rinse thoroughly under cold running water to remove dirt.

2. Place leeks cut side up on a sheet tray or pan, just big enough to hold all the pieces. Generously drizzle with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and place thyme sprigs on top of the leeks. Pour chicken stock into the pan (liquid should be about halfway up leeks). Cover with tinfoil and braise in oven for 50 minutes. Remove foil, turn up heat to 450°, and cook until golden brown on top with most of the liquid gone, about 20–30 minutes more.

3. While leeks are cooking, heat cream in a saucepan over medium heat. When cream just begins to bubble (but not boil), slowly stir in the cheese, warming until the mixture is a fondue consistency, stirring constantly. Add white pepper to taste.

4. Arrange leeks on plate. Drizzle taleggio cream over leeks, and garnish with the seed mix.

This recipe originally appeared in “Not Your Grandmother’s Wine” by Sarah Mock.