“CAN YOU PUSH ME, MOMMY?” called Esther, my six-year-old daughter, lying on a giant hammock near our room.
Hotel Willa has a few of these inviting hammocks strung around the property, but she went straight for the one under the willow. Willa, the imposing tree’s name and the hotel’s namesake, is a 40-foot-tall quiet center of gravity with long green strands that fall like hair. While the Taos sun can be harsh, this tree is soft. It reads less like landscaping and more like an abuela spirit, arms out, ready to gather you in.
We’d come to the artistic mountain town to experience the extreme makeover. Los Angeles–based Casetta, a property group known for turning defunct roadside motels into design-forward escapes, took the long-shuttered 1960s adobe-style motor lodge just outside downtown and reopened it in May 2025. It feels both new and oddly familiar—midcentury bones with a modern Land of Enchantment ease. I expected cute rooms, a good dinner, maybe a swim. I did not expect a tree to knock the wind out of me.
When my daughter migrated toward the pool—already loud with local kids on floaties—I slid into the hammock beneath the willow and let the day finally sink in. Above me, Taos did its usual sky magic: puffy clouds drifting across an impossible blue. The breeze lifted the willow’s tendrils in slow motion. And for a second, the world got very quiet.
It felt like a scene from the children’s book The Giving Tree, except this one is never going to be chopped down and made into a boat. In my head—call it imagination, call it grief, call it Taos doing what Taos does—I heard a message that landed with the strange clarity of truth: Your grandma says she is safe now—and she’s sorry. I laughed and cried at the same time (if you’ve dealt with a family member who suffered from Alzheimer’s disease, you know there’s a lot of confusion and unanswered questions there). Thank you, I whispered. Because what else do you say to a willow with a message from beyond?
When I finally climbed out of that hammock, returning to my room felt like exactly the right place to process it. Hotel Willa’s rooms are a natural extension of the landscape at the foot of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains: quiet, warm, and beautifully grounded. Think muted ecru and desert rose hues, handwoven textiles, and handmade furnishings from sustainably harvested wood by New Mexico–based Pfeifer Studio.
Curated, but not precious. Soft adobe walls, arched doorways, a vintage radio, and the kind of calm that makes your shoulders drop and breathe deeper—without even realizing it. Some rooms open onto private patios with woven chairs and a firepit, perfect for watching the sky turn sherbet at dusk. There are also new suites, including a private hot tub, in a separate building on the property, ideal for multigenerational getaways or small-group retreats.
The hotel also doubles down on Taos’s creative pulse. Curated by the Taos-based Paseo Project, a public-facing gallery features rotating exhibits, an artist residency program (I met Paulina Ho, the New York–based graphic artist in residence, while getting my morning coffee in the lobby), and works by local artists.
“Taos is home to an extraordinary community of artists and makers,” says Jennifer Stouffer, Casetta’s senior director of brand development. “We want guests to experience art on an intimate level—art that creates a sense of place, deepens their connection to the space, and invites them to slow down, pause, and reflect.”
In the rooms, the art-forward theme continues: Dawning Pollen Shorty’s (Taos Pueblo/Lakota/Navajo) soulful clay bear sculptures add a wink of joy. Johnny DeFeo’s bright plein-air paintings add a playful pop to the walls. It feels like an invitation to learn more, go deeper into Taos culture.
Dinner is at Juliette, helmed by Shed Project executive chef Noah Pettus. The hotel’s all-day restaurant was created by chef Johnny Ortiz-Concha (Taos Pueblo) and his partner, Maida Branch (Pecos Pueblo/Ute), of Siempre Design. Named after Ortiz-Concha’s late mother, Juliette carries that kind of energy—equal parts tribute and gathering space. Served on ceramics by local artist Logan Wannamaker, the comfort-heavy menu features a dry-aged rib eye for two from Criollo cattle raised nearby, sourdough from Johnny’s younger sister, Allysa Concha-Ortiz, and seasonal, vegetable-forward plates like an addictive bowl of lima beans with escarole and green garlic. “We’re not chasing trends,” he says. “We’re just honoring what’s grown around us.”
The bar maintains the same authentic yet elevated vibe. You’ll find classic cocktails showcasing unique spirits—such as a daiquiri with Uruapan Charanda Blanco (a funky sugarcane rum from Michoacán, Mexico)—and a small but mighty selection of low- and no-alcohol options. “We are one of the only open-’til-midnight spots in Taos,” says Casetta Hotels president Jennifer Armbruster. “After listening to the community, we’ve introduced new things, like a happy hour, chimichangas on the late-night menu, and trivia nights and live music.”
And then there’s the wellness piece—easy, unfussy, and exactly what you want after a day in Taos. A Palm Springs–style pool for sun-soaked lounging. A cold plunge for the brave (or the over-caffeinated) and a dry sauna.
Taos has always been a place where people come to feel something—art, altitude, awe, a little reinvention. Hotel Willa fits right into that lineage, not by trying too hard, but by letting the land and the locals lead. Come for the design. Stay for the top-notch eats and drinks. And if you find yourself under the mother willow with a lump in your throat, don’t be surprised. Some places don’t just welcome you, they offer answers—even healing.
233 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos; 575-305-7711
OLD FAVORITE
With just eight rooms, Heritage Hotels’ Palacio de Marquesa is personal and serene with leafy grounds and cozy fireplaces. It’s close enough to Taos Plaza for easy wandering but also tucked away enough to feel pleasantly under the radar. Linger over the gourmet breakfast, then do a twilight wind-down by the fire before a short stroll into town for dinner.