The juniper tree is common in the Southwest, and juniper ash, or gad bee łeeshch’iih, is a staple in the Navajo pantry. However, it is not something you can buy at your local grocery store. It is typically made at home or purchased from Navajo food purveyors on the Navajo Nation. Traditionally, it is made outside in large batches over an open fire with the ashes stored for use throughout the year. Since the juniper branches are usually wild-foraged in isolated areas, avoid selecting branches in high-traffic areas because they may have been treated with pesticides or other unknown chemicals. A common Navajo teaching is to “take only what you need,” so be mindful when foraging juniper branches. Juniper ash is often used when cooking with blue cornmeal. I like to call juniper ash a Navajo superfood. It helps break down the cornmeal to make it more digestible and infuses the cornmeal with nutrients like zinc, iron, and magnesium. Most importantly, it provides a source of calcium. The ash also deepens the blue color of blue cornmeal. If you cook without it, then the color of the blue cornmeal will be more of a purplish blue. (It is also called Navajo baking powder because it acts like an alkaline solution when dissolved.) Juniper ash can also be found at local flea markets, trading posts on the Navajo reservation, and sometimes online.

SAFETY NOTE: This is a modern approach to making a small batch of juniper ash. Take the necessary precautions to ensure this is done safely. Juniper ash must be created outside and away from anything that could catch fire, as there will be open flames and smoke. I do this in my backyard at least 15 feet away from my house on ground that has gravel. Avoid making juniper ash on windy days.

  • 4 or 5 juniper branches (about 12 inches long) or about 12 ounces juniper tree sprigs with berries removed
  • Special equipment: campfire grill, kitchen torch, medium sifter

Yields ½ cup

  1. If using juniper branches, cut off all the sprigs with scissors and discard any large branches. Clean each sprig by lightly rinsing it with cool water for 1 to 2 minutes. Remove and discard any juniper berries and excess debris. Let the branches dry completely for at least 24 hours.
  2. Line a sheet pan with aluminum foil and set it on the ground where you’ll prepare the juniper ash outside. Place the campfire grill grate directly over the sheet pan, so that the entire sheet pan is underneath the grill grate without any obstructions. You should be able to easily remove the sheet pan from underneath the grill grate.
  3. Place 3 to 5 sprigs on top of the grill grate. Then, with a kitchen torch, fully ignite the juniper sprigs so that they burn completely. The juniper embers will fall onto the sheet pan underneath the grill grate. Repeat, working in batches of 3 to 5 sprigs, being careful to control the open flames. The branch portion of the juniper sprig will mostly remain on the grill while the burned cedar embers will fall onto the sheet pan.
  4. Once all the ashes have cooled for 8 to 10 minutes, carefully remove the sheet pan from underneath the grill grate and discard any debris left on the top of the grill.
  5. Carefully scoop the ashes into the sifter with a metal spoon and sift the ash into a medium bowl. Store the juniper ash in an airtight glass container in a cool place, such as a pantry, for up to six months.

This recipe originally appeared in "Diné Dining" by Andi Murphy.