WE MAY NEVER KNOW WHO invented chiles rellenos, that oozy, piquant, and beloved staple of Mexican and New Mexican cuisines. But in recent years, one thing’s for sure: Chefs across the state are both innovating and elevating this classic dish of roasted, stuffed, battered, and then fried chiles to impressive new heights.

An oft-told origin tale of chiles rellenos, which means “stuffed chiles,” credits the nuns of the Santa Monica convent in Puebla, Mexico, with the dish’s invention. The sisters cooked up an honorary meal of chiles en nogada for the leader of the Mexican Army, Agustín de Iturbide, when he visited Puebla in 1821 after signing the treaty awarding Mexico independence from Spain.

As the story goes, the nuns stuffed green poblanos with a mixture of ground meat, nuts, fruits, and spices, and then draped the dish in a white walnut sauce topped with red pomegranate seeds. The colors of the dish reflected the green, white, and red of the infant country’s new flag in a respectful tribute to Iturbide, who would soon become emperor.

While chiles en nogada remains a treasured dish in Mexico, historians have also served up ample evidence that Indigenous and mestizo people already were stuffing chiles with a variety of fillings centuries before the Puebla nuns “invented” chiles rellenos.

Cristina Martinez is the executive chef of El Monte Sagrado's De La Tierra Restaurant in Taos.

Wherever they originated, chiles rellenos evolved after traveling the foodways from Mexico to New Mexico with early Spanish settlers. Like so many beloved foods brought from one part of the world to another, the dish was adapted to reflect its new locality.

The poblano, for instance, is a mainstay ingredient in Mexico’s chiles rellenos, stuffed with queso Oaxaca, queso Chihuahua, or another regional cheese, and served with tomato sauce. The New Mexico–grown Hatch chile reigns supreme in the Land of Enchantment’s rellenos, which are traditionally stuffed with Monterey Jack or asadero cheese and served with red or green chile sauce.

Cristina Martinez, the acclaimed executive chef of El Monte Sagrado’s De La Tierra Restaurant in Taos, has enjoyed a long love affair with chiles rellenos. “The traditional relleno has always been one of my favorite things,” she says. “I have quite the history of making them with my mom in Albuquerque, and also being a connoisseur of trying different chiles rellenos everywhere.”

While she was living in Los Angeles, for example, she noticed most of the rellenos followed the Mexican tradition. “They were more often made with poblano and a tomato-based sauce, heavily breaded with lots of cheese,” she recalls.

Martinez has cooked up a clever twist on seasonal rellenos for De La Tierra. “I wanted to put something on the menu that was very New Mexican, but also very summerlike,” she says. “Something that had that real ‘wow’ factor.” So she started experimenting with various ways to smoke, cook, and shred pulled pork for the filling. “It was quite a process.”

In her version, cheese only helps to hold the pork together. “The crunch, the smell, everything that goes into it when you bite into it is definitely like summer in your mouth,” she says.

At Albuquerque’s La Fonda del Bosque, chef Stefani Mangrum uses shiitake mushrooms and goat cheese in her chiles rellenos.

The rellenos served at La Fonda del Bosque, the restaurant at Albuquerque’s National Hispanic Cultural Center, are undoubtedly one of a kind. Chef-owner Stefani Mangrum created the recipe by chance in the early 1990s at her first Albuquerque restaurant, City Grill & Wine Bar. When a pregnant customer told her she couldn’t eat most dairy, Mangrum substituted a milder goat cheese. Around the same time, she received a grow-your-own-mushroom log as a Christmas present and started using it in her own kitchen before discovering she was severely allergic to the spores necessary for fungi growth. Looking for a way to use them up, she conceived of her famous rellenos, which are stuffed with caramelized shiitake mushrooms and onions, roasted garlic, and goat and asadero cheeses, then served atop a luscious corn coulis.

“They’re labor-intensive,” says Mangrum. “I feed all my staff whatever they want except for the rellenos. When one explodes or implodes, the staff are happy because they can eat that one.”

She understands that the unusual combination of ingredients isn’t what guests expect. “We’re not conjuring up food-emotional memories; I don’t think our grandmothers or mothers were making these,” she says. “Usually, there’s silence at the table when the rellenos arrive. That’s always a good sign.”

At Cocina Azul’s three locations in Albuquerque, diners can choose their own chiles rellenos adventure. The longtime restaurant serves the dish with a choice of three toppings: brisket, carne adovada, or creamy chicken. “The brisket is our most popular topping,” says Daniel Sosa, manager of Cocina Azul, which opened its first location at 1134 Mountain Road NW in 2009.

“The flavor of our brisket is a good combo with the chile and the Monterey Jack cheese,” he adds. Cocina Azul is renowned for its batter. “We add soda water to give a crispy texture when you fry the rellenos,” says Sosa. “And we’re really picky with the chile. It has to be whole, intact, with no black dots and no burn marks, as perfect and as fresh as it can be.”

Even before the fancy toppings are added, the resulting rellenos hit all the right notes, including the one that might matter the most to New Mexicans. “It’s like homemade,” says Sosa. “Like grandma used to make. It’s like coming home when you taste this.”

De La Tierra Restaurant’s Cornbread–Crusted Hatch Green Chiles Rellenos with Smoked Pulled Pork and Jicama Slaw

DE LA TIERRA RESTAURANT’S CORNBREAD–CRUSTED HATCH GREEN CHILES RELLENOS WITH SMOKED PULLED PORK AND JICAMA SLAW

Good old-fashioned barbecue inspired chef Cristina Martinez to create these flavorful rellenos, which she pairs with a refreshing jicama slaw. Her go-to seasoning is Spiceology’s Cowboy Crust and Smoky Honey Habanero spice blends, but you can substitute your favorite spices. Any leftover pork is easy to freeze.

ROASTED CHILES

  • 8–10 fresh Hatch chiles​

CRUMB MIXTURE

  • 4 cups blue and yellow corn chips, finely crumbled
  • 6 cups dried-out cornbread crumbs, slightly toasted but very dry and very fine (or plain panko crumbs)
  • Salt, to taste
  • Smoked paprika, to taste
  • Garlic powder, to taste
  • Onion powder, to taste

SMOKED PULLED PORK

  • ½ cup salt
  • 4 pounds pork butt, rubbed with a strong BBQ seasoning (The meat will shrink by half after cooking.)
  • 1 pound brown sugar
  • 4 cups quality orange juice
  • 1 cup apple cider vinegar
  • ½ cup tamari
  • 4 cups water
  • 2 teaspoons chipotle powder
  • 3 cups Manchego cheese, grated (reserve 1 cup for garnish)
  • 3 cups Muenster cheese, grated (reserve 1 cup for garnish)
  • About 1 cup of reserved braising liquid, to season

RED CHILE SAUCE

  • 1 large tub Bueno Red Chile Puree (or puree your own boiled and softened dried pods)
  • 3 cloves garlic
  • 3 cups water
  • 1 yellow onion, cut into quarters and blackened in cast-iron pan
  • Salt or chicken bouillon, to taste
  • ¼ cup cornstarch mixed with ½ cup water, to make a slurry
  • Pork braising liquid, to taste

JICAMA SLAW

  • 1 cup finely shredded red cabbage
  • 1 large jicama, peeled, cut with flat sides on each end, and julienned into thin strips
  • 1 red bell pepper, julienned into thin strips
  • ¼ cup roasted corn
  • 1 carrot, shredded
  • 4 green onions, cut on long bias
  • ¼ cup rice wine vinegar
  • 1 teaspoon honey
  • ¼ teaspoon chipotle powder
  • 1 garlic clove, crushed
  • 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons sour cream

ASSEMBLY

  • 3 quarts vegetable oil, depending on size​ of pot, for frying
  • 4 eggs
  • 4 tablespoons water
  • 3 cups all-purpose flour
  • Smoked paprika, to taste
  • Salt, to taste
  • ¼ cup cotija for garnish

Serves 4–6 (1–2 rellenos per person)

ROASTED CHILES

  1. Roast the chiles on the grill or open flame.
  2. Place in bowl and cover with plastic wrap while hot, to steam.
  3. When cool, peel, cut a slit from stem to end, and deseed slightly. Do not wash with water, as this takes away the chile flavors from the roasting.
  4. Cover and refrigerate.

CRUMB MIXTURE

  1. Mix chips and cornbread crumbs together into a fine crumb mix. Season with salt, smoked paprika, garlic powder, and onion powder. (You can do this in a food processor, with just a few pulses.)
  2. Place in a long, open container for the assembly portion of the recipe (see below).

SMOKED PULLED PORK

  1. Rub salt all over pork butt and place in large, deep roasting pan.
  2. Add brown sugar, orange juice, vinegar, tamari, water, and chipotle powder around the pork.
  3. Cover and cook for about 3½ to 4 hours at 325°, until internal temperature reaches 205°. Add more water if liquid gets low during the cooking process.
  4. When pork is completely cooled, reserve about 1 cup of braising liquid and remove fat. Shred pork as finely as possible.
  5. Stir the cheeses and braising liquid into the shredded pork. The mixture should be firm and pliable. (You can use a paddle attachment on a mixer to really shred it.)

RED CHILE SAUCE

  1. In a large pot, bring chile puree, garlic, water, onion, and salt or bouillon to simmer together, and blend in a blender.
  2. Stir in cornstarch-water slurry to thicken.
  3. Add some of the pork braising liquid, to taste.

JICAMA SLAW

  1. Firm up the shredded cabbage in ice water so it’s crispy. Remove and dry it, then mix all the vegetables in a large bowl. Add rice wine vinegar, honey, chipotle powder, crushed garlic, and mustard. Stir to combine. Let sit for 10 minutes.
  2. Slowly add olive oil, stirring quickly.
  3. Stir in sour cream.

ASSEMBLY

  1. Stuff chiles with lots of pork mixture. The chile does not have to close; a gap can be present for larger rellenos.
  2. Preheat oil in pot or deep fryer to 325°. (Use a deep-fryer thermometer to measure temperature.)
  3. Beat eggs and water in a long, open container.
  4. Season flour with smoked paprika and salt, and place in a second long, open container.
  5. Dip each relleno in flour mixture and coat all over. Knock off the excess flour, then place in egg mixture and coat well. Place in prepared chip-and-crumb mixture, really pressing into the breading.
  6. Deep-fry until nice and crispy. Color should be a dark golden brown.
  7. Preheat oven to 350°.
  8. Lay rellenos in baking dish and pour the red chile sauce over the middle, leaving the ends uncovered.
  9. Combine Manchego and Muenster cheeses reserved for garnish. Place over the middle of the rellenos in dish.
  10. Bake in oven for 10-15 minutes, until cheese is melted and rellenos are hot inside.
  11. To plate, top each relleno with a good amount of jicama slaw, then garnish with cotija cheese.

La Fonda del Bosque’s Shiitake Mushroom Chiles Rellenos with Corn Coulis

LA FONDA DEL BOSQUE’S SHIITAKE MUSHROOM CHILES RELLENOS WITH CORN COULIS

Caramelized shiitake mushrooms and red onions tucked inside roasted green chiles with melty cheese add up to pure comfort food with an elegant twist. Owner and chef Stefani Mangrum calls it Latin fusion, and it’s the focus of her menu at La Fonda del Bosque. She makes the corn coulis with fresh sweet corn, but you can also use frozen.

FILLING

  • 1 pound shiitake mushrooms, de-stemmed and cut in a thick julienne
  • 1 stick (8 tablespoons) butter, divided
  • 1 cup olive oil, divided
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • 2/3 cup whole garlic cloves, peeled
  • 2 medium red onions, cut in a thick julienne
  • 1 pound goat cheese
  • 1 pound shredded asadero cheese, grated
  • 16 Hatch green chiles, roasted, peeled, and deseeded with the stem on

CORN COULIS

  • 3 ounces butter, divided
  • ½ teaspoon minced garlic
  • 1 large red bell pepper, finely diced
  • 1 pound fresh sweet corn, cut off the cob
  • 2 cups white wine
  • Salt and pepper, to taste
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro (optional)

BATTER

  • 5 eggs, separated
  • 2 cups flour
  • Pinch of cumin
  • ½ bottle dark beer
  • Salt and pepper, to taste

ASSEMBLY

  • Vegetable oil for frying

Serves 8 (2 rellenos per serving; these freeze very well)

FILLING

  1. Cook shiitake mushrooms in a medium pan in a few tablespoons of butter and olive oil over medium heat in a single layer. Caramelize the edges of the mushrooms. Add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside to cool.
  2. Roast whole garlic cloves in a small pan in olive oil and a pinch of salt. Slow cook at the lowest possible heat until soft and golden brown. Drain and set aside to cool. (Save the olive oil to add extra flavor in your everyday cooking.)
  3. Cook the red onions over medium heat with remaining butter and olive oil until golden on the edges. Set aside to cool.
  4. In a large bowl, add the goat cheese, asadero cheese, cooked mushrooms, onions, and garlic. Mix together. (Garlic can be left whole or roughly cut.)
  5. Fill the peeled and deseeded chiles with the mushroom-and-cheese mixture. It helps to make little logs with the mixture to get all the crevices filled.
  6. Place the filled chiles in the freezer for 45 minutes or until they are firm to the touch. (This will help keep the rellenos from falling apart in the battering process.)

CORN COULIS

  1. While the rellenos are in the freezer, start the corn coulis by heating half the butter in a medium saucepan. Add the minced garlic, bell peppers, corn, and white wine. Cook over medium heat until the wine is cooked out. Season with salt and pepper.
  2. Reduce heat to a simmer. Add the cilantro and remaining butter. Simmer for 5 minutes, then remove from heat and set aside.

BATTER

  1. Add egg yolks, flour, cumin, dark beer, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix until smooth. (This will be a thick paste.)
  2. Whip the egg whites in a mixer until the peaks are stiff. Gently fold the egg whites into the yolk-and-beer mixture, working from the sides inward so as not to break down the egg whites.

ASSEMBLY

  1. Coat the rellenos in the batter, making sure they are fully coated so your filling will not leak out.
  2. Cook rellenos in a fryer or Dutch oven at 360° for 6 to 9 minutes, or until golden brown. (They can be kept in a warm oven for an hour.)
  3. For serving, spoon the corn coulis on a plate and top with two rellenos.

Cocina Azul’s chile relleno spin features three kinds of toppings.

COCINA AZUL’S CHILES RELLENOS

Searching for fresh potato chip flavors in 2020, Lay’s chose Cocina Azul’s chiles rellenos as one of five iconic restaurant dishes across the country to inspire a limited-edition chip. But locals have long known about this delicious dish. While Cocina Azul famously serves three topping choices—brisket, carne adovada, and creamy chicken—feel free to smother yours with red or green chile, or any other favorite toppings.

  • About 1 ½ cups Monterey Jack cheese, shredded
  • 1 small onion, diced
  • 6 poblanos or fresh green chiles, roasted and peeled
  • 3 eggs
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • ½ cup soda water
  • ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon flour, divided
  • A few tablespoons or more olive or vegetable oil, for frying

Serves 2–3 (Makes 6 rellenos)

  1. Mix cheese and onion together in a medium bowl.
  2. Cut a 2-inch slit from the upper to middle section of each chile pod. Try to remove as many seeds as you can while keeping the opening as small as possible. Carefully fill each chile with the cheese-and-onion mixture through the opening.
  3. Separate your eggs, putting the egg whites in a large mixing bowl and setting aside the yolks in a smaller bowl. Beat the egg whites using a mixer until peaks form. Then add salt and 1 tablespoon flour to the reserved egg yolks. Whisk the yolk mixture until it forms a thick yellow paste. Then stir the yolk mixture into the egg whites. Add soda water and mix well to make the batter.
  4. Now put ½ cup of flour in a shallow dish. Place the stuffed chiles, the flour, and the batter next to your stove, forming an assembly line.
  5. Heat a large frying pan over medium-high heat and add olive or vegetable oil to coat the bottom. Once the pan is hot, take a stuffed chile and dip it first in the flour, then into the batter, making sure it’s covered on all sides. Then carefully place it in the frying pan. Cook 3-4 minutes on one side until golden brown, then flip it over and cook 3-4 minutes more, until both sides are golden brown. You may need to add more oil to the pan as you cook all the chiles. Serve immediately.

Read more: In the last century, Chinese restaurants brought diversity to New Mexico’s culinary landscape. Now, a new generation of Asian immigrants is telling fresh—and delicious—origin stories.