WORKING ALONE IN A KITCHEN at the end of a winding dirt road, chef Graham Dodds thrives on culinary fusion. He roasts a French-inspired cast-iron quail, draping it in mushroom and chicken-liver gravy straight from the American South, then he prepares an apple-mincemeat Wellington, “which is British and probably sticks out like a sore thumb,” says the chef and owner of NOSA Restaurant & Inn. “But I think it all kind of works.”
Since opening the destination restaurant in Ojo Caliente in 2023, Dodds has offered two five-course tasting menus every weekend by reservation only—dinner on Friday and Saturday, plus two Sunday prix-fixe brunch seatings. The inn’s elegant dining room, complete with a crackling fireplace, feels both quintessentially New Mexican and fashionably austere. A variety of local artists exhibit their work on the stucco walls, and large windows frame a canopy of desert stars at night.
Each meal is inspired by locally grown seasonal produce. “It blossoms from there,” Dodds says. On a recent weekend, that meant kohlrabi from nearby Ojo Farms. “They were huge and gorgeous. I love using something I know was picked this morning.”
Thick slices of the edible stem are remarkably tender, almost creamy, alongside a radicchio salad with chèvre, aged balsamic, and a pleasantly puckery yuzu-grapefruit marmalade. The bittersweet dish follows a first course of smoked salmon and baby-leek rillettes with sea salt crackers and fried capers—an homage to Dodds’s Scottish background—and precedes a saffron-turnip bisque with braised turnip greens and pistachios. The roasted quail with fondant potatoes and kale is next, before the meal ends with that flaky apple Wellington.
Try the fried artichoke at NOSA. Photograph by Tira Howard.
Dodds began his career at Texas steakhouses before honing a more sustainable style at Dallas farm-to-table pioneers, including Bolsa and Wayward Sons. At NOSA, he strives for a “narrative thread” between courses, balancing portion sizes and emphasizing vegetables while thoughtfully incorporating meat, poultry, butter, and cream. After five courses, he wants people to leave full but not overstuffed.
“I still call what I do ‘farm-to-table,’ even though the phrase has been overused,” says Dodds, who grew up taking road trips to Michelin-starred restaurants. “My dad followed chefs like sports heroes.” His family socialized with other gourmands as well as accomplished chefs, one of whom taught Dodds to make a soufflé at age seven. His mother and grandmother were also incredible cooks who put effort into every meal. For Dodds, NOSA is homestyle cooking.
“This is literally my home. I live out back,” he says. “Changing the menu every week keeps me on my toes, and it keeps it exciting for the customers.”
The remote location is part of the experience. NOSA offers four luxurious suites with sweeping views of northern New Mexico. Dodds happily accommodates almost any dietary preference. Depending on the number of reservations, he might make three different menus on a single evening.
“When you’re taking care of people, offering hospitality, no one is an afterthought,” he says. “I’m not going to do an all-vegetarian menu for the restaurant, but I’ll make one just for you.”
For his creativity and meticulous attention to the smallest details, Dodds was nominated for a 2026 James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest. “It was a huge surprise,” he says. “I fly under the radar, and big awards like this have always felt like a popularity contest. But it’s meaningful to be recognized for this place. I’m the only cook in the kitchen. This is from my heart and soul.”
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49 Rancho de San Juan, Ojo Caliente; 505-753-0881, nosanm.com