Above: Photo courtesy of the San Antonio Crane.

The winds were so strong that I practically blew into the middle of the dusty town of San Antonio, just south of Socorro. While the dueling green chile cheeseburger joints, the Owl and the Buckhorn, soak up much of the food press, there’s another hideaway in town, the Crane. With trucks lined up outside and what seemed like the entire staff of the Bosque del Apache Wildlife Refuge inside, I took a chance on the place. I grabbed a seat in the screened-in porch and ordered huevos rancheros, doused in mild red chile, with a side of beans and rice (or papas, if you wish). It was reasonably priced and did the trick, energizing me for the rest of my road trip.

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You might wonder what crane wears a sombrero? The San Antonio Crane’s goofy sign pictures one, paying homage to the food within and the fauna outside. It’s hard to miss. Open every day but Monday.