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AS I STEP OUT OF THE dim pedestrian tunnel into the September twilight, the New Mexico State Fair is in full swing. Roasting green chile, smoked brisket, and fresh frybread scent the air. Joyful shouts come from whirling carnival rides as bands perform live on half a dozen stages, pumping out everything from norteño tunes to indie pop. Every few feet, something new demands attention: the chairlift gliding overhead, a gleaming line of cruising lowriders, the startling bark of a seal performing tricks—and I haven’t even made it to the rodeo arena or the livestock barns yet. 

“We do consider ourselves an agricultural fair,” says Dan Mourning, general manager at Expo New Mexico, the fairgrounds that have been home to the New Mexico State Fair since 1938. Indeed, the fair’s farm and ranching roots run deep. The first territorial fair in what eventually became New Mexico occurred in 1881, bringing together agrarians from across the region to learn and share information about the latest tools of the trade. Back then, roughly 5,000 farms and ranches occupied about 135,000 acres. Today, with more than 20,000 farms and almost 39 million acres of agricultural land throughout the state, the 11-day event celebrates the state’s substantial prowess in raising chiles, pecans, sheep, and cattle, with plenty of quirkier competitions for the largest ear of corn, oddest fruit, and best backyard bunny.  

Carnival games entertain all ages. Photograph courtesy of Nathaniel Tetsuro Paolinelli/New Mexico State Fair.

“There’s a lot of misunderstanding about agriculture right now,” says Harper Dunn, a 16-year-old member of the Corona FFA chapter and a longtime livestock exhibitor. “It’s super important that we as agriculturalists encourage people to come to the barns, look around, and ask questions. We love to educate people.” 

Last year, a record 517,926 people came to indulge in the iconic and unusual fair foods, hear national headliner musicians, cheer on the brightest rodeo stars, and see firsthand the wonders of the state, from a 974-pound pumpkin to the six-foot spread of a Texas longhorn’s namesake headgear.  

“This is New Mexico’s biggest classroom,” Mourning says. In addition to the farm-based exhibits, plus the art, history, and culture on display, hundreds of exhibitors provide additional learning opportunities on topics ranging from health and nutrition to public speaking, STEM, and career advancement. Thousands of young New Mexicans come to the fair to learn and participate every year, with FFA and 4-H members like Dunn running the Red Barn, where attendees can pal around with goats, calves, and ducklings while learning more about animal production.

Fair food is part of the fun. Photograph courtesy of Nathaniel Tetsuro Paolinelli/New Mexico State Fair.

It’s not all cotton candy, baby ducks, and carnival games, though. The fair breeds some serious competition too, whether for the best green chile cheeseburger, wood carving, quilt, or apple pie.    

“It’s a chase,” says Albuquerque gardener Allen Clark, who last year nearly broke the state record for largest pumpkin. “It’s about seeing what you can improve on and building your skills. It’s a hobby, a challenge, and it feels good, and emotional, at the end of the season.”  

But for the first time in 87 years, it’s unclear whether the state fair will continue at the Expo New Mexico Fairgrounds. State lawmakers have identified the area as a potential location for redevelopment, given its proximity to Albuquerque’s urban core and main thoroughfare, the historic Route 66. Leaders have brought on the Canadian-based design firm Stantec, which has an office in Albuquerque, to lead the process of creating a new master plan for the 236 acres the fairgrounds currently occupy. The result could involve the clearing of state fair buildings, barns, and other facilities to make way for housing and neighborhood amenities, potentially forcing the fair to relocate. 

Antique cars have their day on Main Street on September 7. Photograph courtesy of Nathaniel Tetsuro Paolinelli/New Mexico State Fair.

As the details of any future plans remain unclear, Mourning acknowledges that this evaluation process is necessary, but that they remain focused on ensuring a great and accessible event this year. “It’s the people who give the fair its heart and soul,” he reflects, “not the property.”   

Despite uncertainty, there is no question about New Mexicans’ enthusiasm for the state fair. “With everything that’s going on in the world right now, people want that wholesome entertainment,” Mourning says. “They want a safe place where they can get together with their family and friends and just enjoy each other.”

➤ Fair food goes far beyond funnel cakes. See the wild creations at the Unique Foods Contest.

SEPTEMBER 4–14 

Expo New Mexico, 300 San Pedro NE, Albuquerque; 505-222-9700