Like most serious pitmasters, the Watsons barbecue their meats over a hardwood (mesquite) that grows locally. That’s why, across the country, the smoke for cooking and flavoring might come from oak, hickory, alder, or in food writer Cheryl Alters Jamison’s case, a cherry wood that grows on her Santa Fe property. Spareribs, which require hours of cooking to become tender, are best made in a dedicated smoker, such as a log-burning pit. You can do a serviceable job of barbecuing in a gas or charcoal grill, but you’ll be cooking hot and fast—which is against barbecue’s nature. If using a grill, keep the temperature down and be prepared to add wood chunks or chips over the initial four hours of cooking.

  • 3 full slabs “St. Louis cut” (trimmed of the chine bone and brisket flap) pork spareribs, 3 pounds each or less

RIB DRY RUB 

  • ½ cup granulated sugar
  • ¼ cup paprika
  • 2 tablespoons kosher salt 
  • 2 tablespoons coarse-ground black pepper
  • 1 tablespoon chili powder
  • 2 teaspoons garlic powder
  • 2 teaspoons onion powder
  • 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

CIDER MOP (OPTIONAL)

  • 1½ cups apple cider or juice
  • ¾ cup cider vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

Serves 6 or more

1. The night before, combine dry rub ingredients in a bowl. Apply about half of the rub evenly to the ribs. Place the slabs in a plastic bag and refrigerate overnight.

2. Take the ribs from the refrigerator and sprinkle thoroughly with the rest of the dry rub. Let the ribs sit at room temperature for 30 to 40 minutes.

3. Prepare the smoker for barbecuing, bringing the temperature to 200° to 220°.

4. If you plan to use the mop, combine the ingredients in a spray bottle.

5. Transfer the slabs to the smoker, meaty side up. Cook for about 4 hours. Add wood as needed to keep the temperature in the proper range and keep a steady stream of smoke wafting over the meat. If using the mop, spray it lightly over the ribs at 1-hour intervals.

6. Wrap each slab of ribs in foil and return to the smoker or to a 200° to 220° oven for 1–2 (or more) hours, until the meat bends very easily between the bones. Let slabs sit for 10 minutes before slicing them into individual ribs. Serve with your favorite tomato-based barbecue sauce, if you wish.

This recipe originally appeared in "Smokin' on 66" by Cheryl Alters Jamison.