AVID HIKER COCO RAE started volunteering at the Valles Caldera National Preserve in 2018, just as staff began identifying and creating a guide to its trail system. Some of her volunteer time went to tracing those paths and their conditions. But the work was so engaging, she started doing it on her own time, attempting to hike the more than 20 trails in the preserve. In 2020, after more than 18 months of hiking and writing, she published the guidebook Hiking Trails in Valles Caldera National Preserve. “Every single one is really radically different and has its own personality and its own feel,” Rae says.
Her advice: Book your backcountry hiking permits early (available through recreation.gov). Watch the weather, as conditions can change quickly. Be prepared for the elevation, since the park entrance sits at about 8,500 feet and goes up from there. Pack a map and compass, as signage is rare. Here are a few of Rae’s favorite treks.
Find wildflowers along El Cajete Trail.
EL CAJETE TRAIL
Studded with wildflowers in the spring, the 9.4-mile lollipop for hikers or bikers leaves from the Cabin District and climbs to its namesake meadow on a high mesa. Watch for a surprise meadow midway through, Rae says, and interesting washouts that expose pumice and obsidian.
CERRO SECO TRAIL
Push uphill about 1,500 feet to the summit of the lava dome, ascending through a particularly pretty valley before circling the summit. This 11.2-mile loop offers a chance to see pikas, the small high-elevation mammals often heard chirping before they’re spotted, Rae says.
LA GARITA SUMMIT TRAIL
In autumn, aspens flame along the 7.6-mile out-and-back route, which reaches the caldera’s north rim. The 1,800-foot climb showcases what Rae thinks are the best views in the preserve. “The northwest corner is really lovely in the fall,” she says. “It’s really gentle but has some great aspens.”
SOUTH MOUNTAIN TRAIL
In winter, the 8.2-mile out-and-back climbs 1,500 feet for snow-shoers looking to boost their heart rates. “You need to be fit,” she says. “But it’s not super long.”
COYOTE CALL TRAIL
Cross-country skiers and snowshoers especially enjoy the 2.9-mile loop. Accessible for all skill levels, the trail on the south side of NM 4 climbs to a ridgetop for views into Valle Grande.
SULFUR AND ALAMO CANYONS TRAILS
These can be accessed any time of year without a back-country permit. The canyons hold most of the geothermal features in the park and can be toured on a 12.2-mile loop. The fumaroles will be at their best shortly after being recharged by snowmelt or summer rain.
Obsidian can be found on the Banco Bonito Trail.
