Ode to the Handheld
THAT A MASS OF EGGS, potatoes, and breakfast meat could be wrapped in a tortilla, lathered in red or green chile (or often both), and parked on a plate was to me a notion as old as time itself. New…
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Tag: New Mexican Cuisine
How Sparky's Became Legendary
Above: Sparky’s Restaurant. Photograph Courtesy of Sparky’s Restaurant. Colonel Sanders relaxes with Uncle Sam below a rooftop family of giants wielding mugs of root beer next to some Chernobyl-size…
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Chiles Rellenos, Mom's Way
MY SECOND YEAR IN GRAD SCHOOL, I promised to serve chiles rellenos to my PhD adviser and her husband. Without my mom as my kitchen consigliere, and in a studio apartment that was as cramped as the…
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Cuba's Classic Restaurant
Above: From Enchiladas Herra to tableside guacamole, El Bruno's rules. El Bruno’s Restaurante y Cantina started out as the Silver Star Saloon in Cuba, New Mexico, just off of US 550. At the time, it…
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Our 20 Favorite New Mexican Foods
NOTHING BURNS OUR BURRITOS like hearing people—including otherwise knowledgeable foodies—refer to New Mexico’s cuisine as “Tex-Mex” or “Mexican.” The confusion is understandable to a point. Yes, we…
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The 10 Essential Ingredients of a True New Mexican Kitchen
Above: Piñon nuts, tortilla press, dried posole, blue cornmeal on husks, yellow squash, zucchini. Photography by Jen Judge. I’M NOT A NATIVE New Mexican, but I eat like one. And I’m getting to the…
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The Cookie Different
WHEN MOST PEOPLE think of baking Christmas goodies, lard and anise may not come to mind as key ingredients. Unless they’re New Mexicans. Every December here, it’s blessedly impossible to avoid rich…
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Green Season Is Here
(above) Green chiles feeling the heat. THE PUNGENT SMOKINESS of 40 pounds of roasting green chile hung in the air around me like a delicious fog. Round and round, the plump peppers tumbled in the wire…
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Make Your Summer Cookouts Sizzle
HOG WILD PIG ROASTS Most of us aren’t willing to tackle the cooking of a whole hog, though it’s one of the most appealing outdoor cooking methods for serving a group. Fortunately, chefs are serving up…
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